CHUNKY SOCK Pattern
by Arlene Williams

Photos of the sock follows the pattern.

I am passing this pattern to you as a favour. I do not expect anything in return except for you to remember me when someday, someone else may need something from you, and you can pass on the favour to them.-- Arlene Williams

Supplies:

• 3-50 gm balls Chunky weight yarn (need a total of 130 gm for the short version)
• 4.0 mm dpn needles

Gauge: 18/19 sts and 26 rows to 4 inches on size 4.0 mm needles in st st.

Be warned, I do not use inches but count rows, but I will try to include required number of inches.

LEG

Cast on 44 sts. Join in round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Work 5 rows in K1, P1 rib.

Work 13 rows in K3, P1 rib. This should bring you to 4 inches total. If you like a longer sock leg, work in K3, P1 rib until 1 inch before starting the heel.

Knit 7 rows or 1 inch.

HEEL

Knit the next 11 sts, then slip the last 22 sts onto 1 needle for the heel, leaving the remaining 22 sts on 2 needles for the instep.

With wrong side of work facing, proceed as follows:

Row 1: K1, P4, P2 tog, P3, P2 tog, P3, P2 tog, P4, K1. (19 sts.)
Row 2: *K1, Slip 1. Repeat from * to last st. K1.
Row 3: K1, purl to last st, K1.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until a total of 19 rows have been worked, including row 1.

Next row: K8, K2 tog, K9. (18 sts).

SHAPE HEEL

Row 1: P10, P2 tog, P1, turn.
Row 2: K4, Slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn.
Row 3: P5, P2 tog, P1, turn.
Row 4: K6, Slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn.
Row 5: P7, P2 tog, P1, turn.
Row 6: K8, Slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn.
Row 7: P9, P2 tog.
Row 8: K9, K2 tog. (10 sts.)

With right side of work facing, pick up and knit 11 sts along the side of the heel (the little bumps along the edge). You should now have one more bump/stitch to pick-up before the instep. Pick-up this stitch, and then make one st in the space before the instep; knit these 2 sts tog. This helps to prevent a hole.

Note: Knit into the back of the picked up sts as this will twist them and less likely to make holes.

Knit across the 22 st for the instep.

Make a stitch between the instep and the first bump of the heel, and then pick-up the first bump; knit these 2 sts tog. Pick-up and knit 11 sts another sts along the side of the heel, remembering to knit into the back of the picked up sts. Knit the next 5 sts, and slip the next 5 sts of the heel onto the first needle.

The 56 sts are now divided as follows:

Needle 1: 17 sts
Needle 2: 22 sts (from the instep)
Needle 3: 17 sts

You have just completed the hardest part of the sock. Congratulations!!

Proceed as follows:

Row 1:
1st needle: Knit to last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle: Knit across.
3rd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.

Row 2: Knit around.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 40 sts divided as 9, 22, 9 on the 3 needles.

Continue even for a total of 40 rows from the picked up sts at the heel.

I wear a ladies size 8 1/2 shoe, so the 40 rows fits me. Work the foot for yourself until 1 1/2 inches are left for the toes.

SHAPE TOES

Row 1:
1st needle: Knit to the last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, (K2, K2 tog) 4 times, K2 tog, K1.
3rd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.

Work 3 rounds even.

Row 5:
1st needle: Knit to the last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
3rd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.

Repeat last 4 rows until 20 sts are left. Knit across needle 1. Cut yarn, leaving a 12 inch length for grafting. Graft toe.

TOE GRAFTING

Grafting sounds more complicated than it really is. You are joining two rows together with a knit and purl motion. The trickiest part is not to pull the yarn too tight, and not to leave it too loose.

Place the 20 sts on 2 needles, 10 sts on each needle.

Thread the yarn thru a darning needle.

Stitch 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1 --- Needle A

Stitch 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 --- Needle B

The diagram shows the two needles side be side, each with 10 sts.

1. Run the thread thru st 2 as if to knit; drop st 2 off needle B.
2. Run the thread thru st 4 as if to purl. Leave st 4 on needle B.
   Take the thread under needle B.
   
   
3. Run the thread thru st 1 as if to purl; drop st 1 off needle A.
4. Run the thread thru st 3 as if to knit. Leave st 3 on needle A.
   Take the thread under needle B.
   
   
5. Run the thread thru st 4 as if to knit; drop st 4 off needle B.
6. Run the thread thru st 6 as if to purl. Leave st 6 on needle B.
   Take the thread under needle B.
   
   
7. Run the thread thru st 3 as if to purl; drop st 3 off needle A.
8. Run the thread thru st 5 as if to knit. Leave st 5 on needle A.

Repeat steps 5 thru 8 until all sts have been grafted. Darn end in.

Original sock, made 1996. Made with Lion Brand "Jiffy", 100% acrylic.

*********************

These are the "mismatched socks", same three colours, four different patterns. Just to show that socks do not have to match exactually!!

I used a variegated plus two solids, and mixed them up. Made June 1999 using Patons "Shetland Chunky", 75% acrylic, 25% wool.

PS, the colours really are not as garish as they appear, it is the scanner.
The colours are dark teal and amethyst, with the variegated matching.

And if you would like the modified pattern and colour information, e-mail me. The pattern is slightly different from the one listed above.

Copyright Arlene Williams

This pattern was developed by Arlene Williams (quanah@vrx.net). You may print out a copy for yourself, and make copies for your friends as long as no money is charged INCLUDING for the cost of reproduction or materials, and as long as this copyright notice is included. You may not reproduce this pattern for sale or put it on any internet site without my express permission.

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Last updated January 2nd, 2009

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